Easy Metal Coffee Table Legs – FREE Plans!
Not everyone can afford Pottery Barn let alone Restoration Hardware. If you have no idea what I’m talking about go take a look. Trust me. It’s gorgeous! These metal coffee table legs are nice and straightforward using basic but fundamental fabricating skills.
Have you ever been in a furniture store and mumbled to yourself “I could make that”? Or been blown away by the price tag on a new table? I’ve used these sites as inspiration and drawn out exactly what you’ll need to make it EVEN EASIER for you to make one yourself!
This is me saying “pfft, you TOTALLY could make that!”
Here is my table.
Look at that gorgeous reclaimed wood top. And the steel legs are super sturdy if a little overbuilt. Okay, SUPER overbuilt but a table that could double as extra bench seating – AWESOME!
This was the massive pallet I reclaimed. Those timbers are 2 3/4″ x 5 1/2″ x 8′ long. Like I said MASSIVE. But what great weathering? Dimensional lumber from any hardware store comes 5 1/2″ wide so these plans are perfectly adaptable! Measure the thickness of your intended top material and adjust leg lengths from there. Average coffee table height is 17-19″ – generally the height of your couch seat.
Easy Metal Coffee Table Legs – FREE plans!
Please read through plans and remember to ‘always protect yourself all ways’ before starting!
(Not including cut widths)
64″ – 2″ x 3″ x 3/16″ HSS
56″ – 1/4″ x 3″ FB
48″ – 1/4″ x 2″ FB
5 – 2 3/4″ x 5 1/2″ wood boards – 48″
10 – 4″ carriage bolts
If you are using ‘rough cut’, live edge slab or dimensional lumber, remember to adjust for top material thickness! Plans are for my selvaged 2 3/4″ thick boards. To adjust for a standard 19″ high coffee table, using a 2 x 6 top (1 1/2″ thick boards)19″ – 1 1/2″ = 17 1/2″ – 1/4″ FB (flat bar) thickness = 17 1/4″ Cut 2×3 HSS (hollow structural steel) at 17 1/4″ to have a table 19″. Easy, right?
4 – 2″x 3″ x 3/16″ HSS – 16″
2 – 1/4″ x 3″ FB -28″
2 – 1/4″ x 2″ x FB – 24″
Cut material as listed above then use a hand file or grinder to remove burrs at each cut. Prep all joint sites by removing mill scale. You may choose to drill holes in the 3″ FB now for bolting your top to later. Step #7 has measurements for centred hole locations.
Laying one set of leg pieces on a flat, level surface tack the inside corners of the rectangle made by your pieces. This allows for adjustment when you check for square. Measuring from corners diagonally, make sure the two dimensions match. The number doesn’t matter, just as long as they are the same. 1/8″ difference is usually ‘acceptable’ so aim for only 1/16″ Tack the next set of leg pieces.
When you are satisfied it is square, tack all 4 corners of each top joint and both corners of the 2″ FB to maintain square. Repeat on second set of legs.
Mark 1/2″ either side of centre with soapstone and weld a 1″ long bead on the underside of the 3″ FB and inside centre of the 2″ FB where they meet the legs. Do this for both sets of legs.
Without removing tacks, run a grinding wheel along the seam between the tacks on the outside of 2″ FB. This creates a little chamfer where the weld material can fuse and sit nicely down into. Repeat both ends of 2″ FB and top 3 sides of legs.
If you choose, use a grinding disc or flap disc and smooth the convexity of the weld flush with the material on outside surfaces. The chamfer created in step 5 will leave enough weld at joint to maintain joint integrity.
Layout hole locations for attaching top. Drill 1/4″ holes for 3/16″ bolts to line up with timbers including a 1/8″ gap between boards. Bolt on boards.
Painting and finishing. For indoor furniture I like to use Rust-Oleum rust paint spray. Then some adhesive felt cut to size for feet.
Thats it! Brew a cup of coffee. Move the table into place. Put your feet up and reflect on your bad-ass weld skills!